We know how complicated it can be — especially when working with new clients or when you’re a beginner — we’re here to make the process of selecting the best curl and shape a tad easier. The following breakdown provides tips for navigating some of the eye shapes you will encounter as a lash artist.
1. ALMOND EYES
Almond eyes are the most common eye shape. They are approximately twice as long as they are tall, and the most versatile shape when it comes to styling! Clients with almond eyes can wear practically any styling they request, as the doe eye, natural eye, and textured maps all flatter this eye shape, both in person and in photos. As a result, choosing a map comes down to the effect your client is hoping to achieve.
If your client wants their eyes to appear larger, opt for a doe eye, in which the longest extensions are applied in the middle of the eyelid. This will open up the eyes for a brighter, more alert and wide-awake look. (Add a few bottom lashes to widen out the eyes even more!).
If the client prefers to elongate their natural shape even more, a cat eye is the best option. Maximizing length beyond the outside edge of the iris will give a sultry effect as attention is drawn toward the outer corners. To up the impact even more, shift to a stronger curl in the outermost quarter of the lash line - this will give some added lift. Pro Tip: keep the look tidy by decreasing length at the very outer corner; this will prevent droopiness.
With almond eyes, essentially any curl will work as well, so again select this based on the impact your client desires. As the artist, an almond-eyed client is a chance to flex your creative muscles!
2. ROUND EYES
Round eyes are less than twice as long as they are wide. If you're having trouble determining what type your client has, have them look directly at you. If you can see the whites of their eyes either above or below the iris, then they are round.
Round eyes can appear more open and bright than other eye shapes, but with the wrong lash map, your client can end up looking like they're in a permanent state of shock. Avoid doe and open eye styling, instead opting for a natural or cat eye map. Having the length concentrated toward the outer corners will help elongate the eyes, creating the illusion of a more almond eye shape.
3. HOODED EYES
Hooded eyes have an eyelid that extends out and over the base of the natural lashes. Depending on the size of the hood, the lash line can disappear under the lid, causing the lashes to be tucked under and the bases almost hidden.
For these clients, avoid strong curls like CC and D curls, as these will curl so much that the tips almost blend into the lid, resulting in an unnatural look and possibly even discomfort for your client. Instead, select a curl that extends past the hood of the lid before curling up; this will ensure the effect is noticeable. A specialized curl (such as L, L+ or M curls) will have a straight base combined with a beautiful curl throughout the middle and tip of the extension. The straight base will allow the extension to sit flush against the natural lash, which will provide a stronger bond and increase your client’s comfort.
4. DEEP SET EYES
Clients with deep-set eyes have eyes set further back in the skull. Strong curls in shorter lengths can appear unnatural, as the tips of the extensions often rub against the more prominent brow bone. Instead, opt for slightly looser curls and longer lengths. A doe or open eye map that concentrates length toward the center of the eye can open the eyes up beautifully.
5. DOWNTURNED EYES
With downturned eyes, the outer corners sit lower than the inner corners. For these clients, avoid cat eye styling, as length concentrated toward the outer corners can actually emphasize the downturn. As a result, your client may appear sad or sleepy. Instead, opt for a doe eye or open eye map. The length concentrated toward the center of the eye will help to lift it up.
You can also use curls to take the lift effect even further! Try transitioning to a strong curl at the outer third of the eye (from a C to a CC curl, for example). This will provide a little extra lift, similar to a lash lift. Note: this trick works well for most eye shapes!
Selecting lash maps and curls that will flatter your clients’ natural features is one of the most creative and rewarding aspects of lashing. These are just a few of the many eye shapes you’ll encounter in your career as a lash artist. Interested in diving in further? Consider our Classic Online Training, where we cover each of these shapes and more!