Bottom Lashes Are The New Top Lashes. Here's What You Need To Know.
Posted on July 23 2018
Lower lashes aren’t necessarily the first thing that spring to mind when someone wants to glam up their eyes. Yet adding bottom lash extensions can be just what your client needs to add that special extra oomph to their everyday look!
What are bottom lashes and why should clients get them?
Bottom lashes are generally thinner and shorter than upper lashes, and so are their extensions. The extra definition and length offered by bottom lashes can help open up a person’s eyes, making them seem even larger and more dramatic without looking “fake”.
Bottom lashes also reduce the risk of a potential imbalance from only obtaining upper lashes, particularly when paired with eye makeup. Furthermore, clients will love that the additional length offered by bottom lashes help slim the face — and who doesn’t love a more chiseled-looking visage?
How do bottom lashes work?
It takes much less time to attach lower lashes than it does upper lashes (normally half an hour), as there is rarely any reason to attach extensions to each individual eyelash. Simply adding 40-50 lashes to the bottom row can be enough to beautifully enhance the set.
This is good news for clients, as they can often request bottom lashes within their usual upper lash appointment without necessarily adding much more time.
Once mastered, bottom lashes are an excellent additional service to perform for an existing client without too much more effort!
How long do they last?
Bottom lash extensions can last for up to 2 weeks (14 days). When clients shed tears or rub their eyes, bottom lashes tend to be the ones that go first. Due to their relatively short lifespan, some lash artists don’t even perform fills for bottom lashes, but instead simply re-apply new lashes when clients return.
Who can get bottom lashes?
Almost anyone — almost being the operative word. If a client’s lashes are too short or scant in number, adding bottom lash extensions to the ones that do exist might only serve to highlight the client’s deficiency, creating a less natural, unflattering appearance.
On the other hand, many people already have naturally long bottom lashes. Given the lower lashes’ proximity to your cheekbone skin, adding extensions would likely irritate the client or even look too unnatural.
How do I apply them?
Generally speaking, bottom lashes should be less curly than the top lashes to stay looking natural. So if you’re applying a C curl to the top lashes, a J or B curl should do the trick for the bottom.
However, learning to apply bottom lash extensions is an advanced skill. This is because lashes have a tendency to curl upwards, but you want bottom lash extensions to lie properly with the curvature of the client’s natural lashes.
It may take a few more instances of adding and removing lashes that don’t lie properly than might normally occur for upper lash extensions.
Furthermore, bottom lash extension application requires more prep than do upper lashes. The client’s top lashes should be taped down above the eyelid, with an additional eye pad placed underneath the bottom lashes for application.
Lash stylists should make extra sure the client is still able to fully close their eyes to prevent irritation from adhesive fumes (and offer protection from the adhesive itself!).
For best results with clients, lash stylists should be properly trained in applying bottom lashes.
How can I make it easier to apply bottom lashes?
Try flipping the lash tray around to pick the lashes up backwards — it’s a small but super helpful tip!
Some stylists use gel eye pads to secure the eye’s inner corner and surgical tape to secure the outer. This tactic helps avoid accidentally gluing top and bottom lashes together. After securing, ask the client to shut their eyes and tell you if they’re comfortable. Lift the upper lid slightly to make sure that the tape and pad aren’t riding into the client’s eye.
How do I charge for bottom lashes?
You can either charge per lash — $2-$3 — if the client only wants a few, or charge somewhat less than your full set for top lashes (for us, this is approximately $50 for a full set of bottom lashes). The best size to use is 0.1 - 0.15 thickness, depending on the client.
Bottom lashes are an excellent opportunity for lash stylists to offer a mutually beneficial service to clients — you can make some extra money if the client is willing, all while further enhancing their natural beauty!